To see the effects of the minimum wage hike, follow the pho by Thanh Tan of the Seattle Times.
"Editorial writer Thanh Tan explores the connection between Seattle's new
minimum wage and Vietnamese noodle soup. There are things people will
pay a lot for; Pho is not one of them.
If you want to gauge the impact of Seattle’s new $15 minimum wage in the coming months, follow the pho.
Hundreds of restaurants throughout the area now serve Vietnam’s most popular comfort food.
For
less than $10, the average pho connoisseur can slurp on rice noodles
soaked in some mama’s supersecret beef broth. I like my pho with rare
steak, tripe, meatballs, basil and fresh-squeezed lime — no bean
sprouts. As the meat cooks in piping hot soup, I add a wallop of sweet
hoisin sauce. Spicy Sriracha sauce is a must.
Pho is best experienced fresh, in a dining room that’s synonymous
with the small immigrant-run family business. That means an auntie
cooks, and the server or dishwasher is often the owner’s kid or nephew.
Like any other business, these mom-and-pop shops are contending with
an initial wage adjustment per employee, from $9.47 an hour to $11 an
hour as of last week. Businesses with 500 or fewer workers must pay
either $11 an hour or $10 an hour with an additional $1 made up by tips
or payment toward an employee’s medical benefits.
Some restaurants might respond by adding service fees and increasing
menu prices. Ivar’s recently announced plans to end tipping and pay all
employees $15 an hour.
A seafood mainstay can do that. Pho is different. It exists to be large, tasty and cheap.
Quynh-Vy Pham’s family owns four Pho Bac restaurants in the city.
Her parents opened the original shop at the corner of South Jackson
Street and Rainier Avenue South in 1982.
Pham says they will hold on to current prices — $7.75 for a small
bowl, according to the restaurant’s website — as long as possible. Like
so many others pho proprietors, their restaurant is not designed to be
an Ethan Stowell or Tom Douglas establishment where customers expect to
pay premium prices.
“It’s hard for people to pay $15 for a ‘to pho,’ ” Pham says,
referring to the Vietnamese translation of a bowl of soup. “The culture
of Vietnamese restaurants means we have to be price aggressive.”
Pham says they are considering scaling down employment, possibly
ending sit-down service and transitioning to a “fast-casual” concept to
cut down on labor costs.
Mayor
Ed Murray says employees of the city’s Office of Labor Standards will
work “vigorously” with businesses on implementation and outreach,
“particularly to minority communities.”
They’d better. As Murray’s Income Inequality Advisory Committee
formed the new rules last year, it largely ignored the concerns of an
ethnic coalition of business owners.
Taylor Hoang, owner of five Pho Cyclo Cafe restaurants, says the
coalition requested a training wage or an exemption for microbusinesses
with fewer than 10 employees.
They got nothing.
Anxiety is widespread, Hoang says, because the city is still
releasing and translating information for non-English-speaking
communities. For her, increasing the price on a product like pho is
harder than it seems.
“Pho is not categorized as fine dining. People who eat this type of
food have a certain expectation in their mind, so they are very price
sensitive,” she warns. “ If they have to pay more than $10 plus gratuity
and tax, it’s no longer an affordable luxury for customers who are used
to eating with us a few times a week.”
To
reduce expenses, Hoang is considering making their meatballs in-house
using machinery rather than the handcrafted meatballs they commission
from a local producer. Same goes for the tofu and hand-sliced rare
steak.
“There are different ways we can cut our costs. At the same time,
that’s going to trickle down to supporting businesses,” she says.
Murray says it will take some time to understand the effects of the
city’s new floor wage, which remains far below the estimated living wage
of $21 an hour in Seattle.
“By moving to $11, the folks who are
serving [customers] and washing dishes have a little better chance of
feeding their families and keeping a roof over their head,” he reasons.
True, but think about that bowl of pho. It can’t make itself. What happens if it can get to the customer for a fraction of current costs and with fewer people in the kitchen?
Is that efficiency or an unintended consequence of Seattle’s $15 experiment?
Follow the pho and find out."
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